Bangkok

© Antony Giblin Lonely Planet.

Metropolitan Bangkok sprawls as impetuously as its most prominent landmark, Mae Nam Chao Phraya (Chao Phraya River). The more predictable railway line heading north from Hualamphong train station neatly divides the central city area into old and new Bangkok.

Old Bangkok cradles Ko Ratanakosin, the original royal district filled with historic monuments. Following the river north is charming Banglamphu, a residential neighbourhood of shophouses and the famous backpacker spectacle of Th Khao San. Sitting astride Banglamphu like a mahout is Dusit, home to Vimanmek Teak Mansion and the current royal residence, Chitlada Palace.

Swarming either side of Hualamphong station to the river is bustling Chinatown. The outer western rind of Chinatown is known as Phahurat (Little India). Following the river south, you¡¦ll find the area we define as Riverside, a former European mercantile district, sprinkled with crumbling colonial-style buildings and grand churches more at home in piazzas than in soi (lanes).

Old Newer Bangkok is centred around Silom, Sukhumvit and Siam Square, which are crowded with skyscrapers, traffic and neon lights. Th Silom is a clogged artery that connects the river to the southern boundary of Lumphini Park and boasts infamous Patpong. Forming another boundary of Lumphini Park is Th Withayu and Soi Lang Suan, the work- and play-ground for the diplomatic corps. Credit-card addicts and fashion-obsessed teenagers leap-frog between shopping centres in the Siam Square area surrounding Th Phra Ram I. Thanks to the Skytrain and elevated walkways, shoppers enjoy near-continuous climate control.