Los Angeles

Most first-time visitors to LA are instantly overwhelmed by its size and sprawl. Unlike other metropolises, LA is a decentralised hodgepodge with no single, clearly defined hub. It helps to know that what is commonly referred to as 'LA' is really 'LA County', a conglomeration of 88 cities of which LA is just one. The heart of the city of Los Angeles is Downtown, about 19km (12mi) east of the ocean and hemmed in by the I-10, I-5 and US 101 freeways.

East LA, a Latino-dominated area, edges against Downtown, as do the historically African-American neighbourhoods of South Central. Most areas of interest to visitors are west of Downtown LA, including Hollywood and the epicentre of gay and lesbian culture, West Hollywood. Farther west is rich-and-famous territory: Bel Air, Brentwood and Beverly Hills. Hugging the northern coast are the posh beach towns of Malibu, Pacific Palisades and Santa Monica. Farther south along the coast are Venice, followed by the international airport, the South Bay communities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach, upmarket Palos Verdes, and the port towns of San Pedro and Long Beach. The Hollywood Hills, part of the Santa Monica Mountains, are a physical and (some might say) ideological separation between Los Angeles 'proper' and the San Fernando Valley, which extends to the northern boundary of LA County. This quintessential suburbia is characterised by faceless strip malls and major TV and movie studios. South of LA County is Orange County, home of Disneyland, and another necklace of beach towns ranging from rad to ritzy, including Huntington Beach (aka Surf City USA) and Mediterranean-flavoured Laguna Beach.