Dining

Kyūbei
Established in 1936, the unbelievable quality and flawless presentation of Kyûbei’s sushi and sashimi spreads is still revered in restaurant-rich Ginza. If you request it beforehand – and reservations are highly recommended – the owner will arrange for your meal to be served on fine pottery thrown by Rosanjin Kitaoji. In a city reluctant to apply sushi superlatives, this spot is truly considered by Tokyoites to be one of the best.
8-7-6 Ginza
Chūō-ku
tel: 3571 6523
underground rail: Ginza line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 2)
train: JR Yamanote line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit)
11:30 - 14:00 & 17:00 - 22:00 Mon-Sat

L'Osier
In Tokyo, French restaurants are at the top of the culinary ladder, which is why it’s no small feat that local gourmets consider L’Osier to be the best around. But if you wish to analyse the foie gras yourself, you’ll need to book as far as possible in advance since a table at L’Osier is a highly coveted commodity. However, once the wine hits your head and the food hits your lips, you’ll key into the Art Deco–inspired surroundings and realise that Paris isn’t that far away after all.
7-5-5 Ginza
Chūō-ku
tel: 3571 6050
www.shiseido.co.jp/e/losier/top.htm
underground rail: Ginza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit B6)
12:00 - 14:00 & 18:00 - 21:30

Botan
Botan has been making a single, perfect dish in the same button-maker’s house since before the turn of the last century. Sit cross-legged on bamboo mats as chicken nabe (鍋; meat cooked in broth in an iron pan with vegetables) simmers over a charcoal brazier, allowing you to take in the scent of prewar Tokyo.
1-15 Kanda-Sudacho
Chiyoda-ku
tel: 3251 0577
underground rail: Marunouchi Line to Awajichō (exits A3 & A5) or Toei Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5)
11:30 - 20:30 Mon-Sat

Canal Café
When summer evenings in the capital hang heavy with humidity, you may long for a cold glass of white wine and a light meal by the riverside. Sadly, Tokyo has a regrettable dearth of alfresco restaurants with breathing room, though rare canal-side spots like this Iidabashi institution do exist. The speciality here is wood-fired thin crust pizzas and Italian pastas such as scallop and shrimp in a light cream sauce, though the real reason you’re here is to savour a cocktail while soaking up the European atmosphere.
1-9 Kagurazaka
Shinjuku-ku
tel: 3260 8068
underground rail: Namboku, Tōzai, Yūrakuchō or Toei Ōedo Line to Iidabashi (exit B3)
17:30 - 23:30 Tue-Sun

Rakutei
If the Japanese have elevated the deep-fried to an art form, then the chefs at Rakutei create masterpieces nightly. The freshest seafood and the lightest tempura batter are prepared to order, resulting in tender prawn and sweet potato that actually does melt in your mouth. Although there isn’t an English menu, you can easily choose a set meal depending on how much yen you’re willing to part with.
Minato-ku
6-8-1 Akasaka
tel: 3585 3743
underground rail: Chiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 5)
18:00 - 22:00